Mint Check Men's Shirt Makeover: Smart Fashion Tricks for Modest Women on a Budget

How to Turn a Men's Shirt into a Woman's Dress

This summer, I felt very frustrated with the lack of quality fabrics in the women's section of the secondhand clothing shops. Almost everything was stretch knit or polyester. If I'm going to spend time and effort upcycling a garment, it's got to be made of a natural fibre that will be durable as well as comfortable.

Sighing in disappointment after another fruitless assessment of the women's racks, I passed by the men's section and did a double take. I blinked at a row of crisp cotton, long sleeved shirts in summery colours. The cotton was soft, in pristine condition. All I needed was for one to be larger than me...

Following in the pattern of the two-shirt dress (which I wrote about here), I prepared to remove the sleeves for functional reassignment. Taking these "Before" photos before ripping into the stitching with a seam ripper, I learned why the former owner had rejected his brand new shirt. Some of the buttons didn't line up with the button holes, creating puckers in the placket. So easy to fix once you know what the problem is!

Well, his loss was my gain. One shirt renovation coming right up.

1. Dismantle the shirt carefully.

Remove sleeves. Remove cuffs and buttons from sleeve placket (but leave buttons on cuffs). Press open sleeve seams. Topstitch cuff plackets closed.

2. Upgrade the centre front button placket.

Remove buttons on shirt placket. Measure, mark, and sew new buttonhole between each existing buttonholes. (This prevents any gaping at the bust, and makes the buttons more of a feature.) Sew buttons back in place, using those from the sleeves for the new buttonholes.

If you're going to use the cuffs as pockets, you may want to leave the cuff buttons in place. If you're short of buttons for centre front, check the tag in the side seam, which usually has extra buttons stored there. You can also use the buttons from the collar.

3. Adjust the shirt to fit your body.

Classy dressing begins with perfect fit. Take your time on this. I do not have the muscled shoulders that this shirt was designed to accommodate, so a number of darts were necessary to remove gaping around the armholes. The two shoulder blade darts extended so far across the back, I joined them together for continuity. The front darts begin at the armhole and extend down to the chest pockets. If I didn't point them out, most people wouldn't even notice they are there.

The last step of fitting the shirt is choosing where the waistline is going to be and trimming the hem thereto. Remember to allow wriggle room for getting the dress over your hips or over your head. The more fitted you make the dress, the more difficult it will be to climb into it. If you're not creating a dropped waist, you don't have the benefit of the button placket descending below your hips.

One more thing to consider before you cut the hem: straight across is quick and simple, but a curve will be more pleasing to the eye. I didn’t think about this until after I'd attached the skirt and was feeling frustrated by the boxy look. To mitigate this, I added a bias binding trim topstitched in a swoop up over the hips and down front and back. I'm much happier with the feminine look this gives.

4. Plan the skirt.

What shape skirt?
What style waist fitting?
Side pockets or patch pockets or both?

I chose a fitted waist, an A-line flare, and a contrasting waistband. I placed the sleeves cuff-upward this time (on the two-shirt dress, the cuffs are at the hem), allowing the armhole scoop to be a feature of the hem.

It was a challenge gleaning enough width from the small quantity of coordinating fabric I had available. I would rather have had more vertical bands of narrower width, and perhaps a third coordinating fabric, but sometimes you just do the best you can with what you have. (Ok, let's make that you *always* do the best you can!)

When you're satisfied with the skirt layout, cut and sew the pieces. If you've planned side pockets, apply each of the four pockets pieces to its corresponding side seam as your first step. Next, join each of the two side seams, stitching around the pocket shape as you go. Press the pockets forward. Now join the rest of the skirt pieces together.

5. Prepare skirt lining.

I had intended to use an emerald polycotton remnant for the lining, as it brightened the floral layer above it, but I hesitated over the coarseness of the polyester fibre in it and the knowledge that it would pill quickly. Contemplating my options, I realized that I had a supersoft lawn that matched the chambray colour of the collar and shoulder facings. Nobody would see the skirt lining except me, but I knew having the upper and lower linings match each other would please my eye. I also knew which fabric would be more pleasing to my skin.

Cut the skirt lining to fit the skirt. Sew the pieces together. Place the lining inside the skirt, and with wrong sides together, sew them together close to the seam allowance at the waist.

6. If you have a waistband.

You can join the waistband to the skirt and then join the skirt to the shirt.

Because my waistband added two parallel seams across my belly, I decided to create a smoother internal finish by lining the waistband as well as the skirt. I cut a band of lawn to match the floral cotton and pressed up the lower seam allowance. Laying the upper seam allowance against the shirt/skirt seam, with right side of band to wrong side of shirt, I sewed the inner band to the seam allowance. After I attached the skirt to the shirt, I pressed the inner band down over the raw edges of the two waistband seams, and handstitched it close to the lower band seam.

7. Join top and bottom.

Place skirt and shirt right sides together, and sew around the waist with a normal seam allowance (15mm or ⅝ inch).

8. Hem the skirt. Hem the lining.

9. Make bias binding to edge the armholes.

You might choose to do this step before you join the skirt to the top so there's less fabric to manoeuvre around the sewing machine. I did this step last, because I needed to use the largest floral scraps for the skirt. I used what was left over to cut the strips for the armholes.

To make bias binding:

Cut 40mm wide strips of fabric across the bias (at 45 degrees to the selvedge).

If your strips aren't long enough, cut the ends at 45 degrees and stitch together with a very narrow seam. Press seams open.

Press the strip in half, then press one side in towards the centre fold. Stitch the other side to  the garment at 10mm seam allowance (right side of tape to wrong side of garment). Press the seam open. Turn garment right side out. Pin or tack the tape to the right side of the armhole, and topstitch close to the edge.

For an adaptable fit:

After trying a variety of ways to bind armholes, I've decided adaptable fit is my priority, so I no longer sew a circle that fits the armhole and sew it to the armhole.

For an adaptable fit, open up an inch or two of the side seam and sew a straight piece of tape around the armhole from one raw edge to the other. Pin the folded edge to the right side, and topstitch close to the folded edge.

Now pin the side seams for best fit. Sew up the rest of the side seam where your pins are, edge stitch the seam, trim any excess tape to the seam allowance, and press the seam allowance to the side. If it's still visible when you're wearing the garment, add a few stitches to keep the seam allowance out of sight.

This method means if you put on weight, you can easily let out the seam and give yourself more room.

10. Add patch pockets.

Shirt cuffs make dinky patch pockets. Make sure all seam allowances are tucked under. Pin or tack the cuffs flat so they sit even to each other. Place them on the skirt and pin. (I use a cardboard sleeve poked between the skirt and lining to prevent pinning to the lining as well.) Topstitch pockets to skirt.

Voila! That's another satisfying Frugalista Fashion project completed. I find the blend of colours and patterns very pleasing. I adore the feel of the cotton shirt and the soft skirt lining. The fabric quality is excellent-- no ironing required. The design elements fall a little short of what I was aiming for, but I love wearing the dress, so I am content.

I hope you've found something beautiful and inspiring here today. Look out for more Boutique Narelle posts detailing liberating modest fashion techniques.

Fiat lux!
Narelle  

Shabby Chambray Tunic Upgrade: Smart Fashion Tricks for Modest Women on a Budget

 Upcycle an old tunic in 4 simple steps

I love being the recipient of donated clothing. It's a treasure trove of possibilities. I don't always get to wear the garments myself or use the fabric in my homemaking, but even if I end up giving them away to someone else, the exploration of potential is great fun. Very often, with a little creativity added, I do end up with something I love to wear.

The original state of this chambray tunic didn't look impressive - stained, a bit faded, and with deep armholes edged with a bulky wad of folded self-fabric trim. I marvelled that a designer would choose to position a wad of fabric under a woman's armpit... Anyway, I saw Possibilities.

The washed-out blue is not a good colour on my Spring complexion that's naturally blue-toned already, but given the permanent stains, I figured I'd only be wearing it in the garden. And as soon as I touched that soft, light cotton, I knew I very much wanted to wear it in the garden and I knew I'd feel very comfortable when I did.

ESSENTIAL UPGRADES

The essential upgrades required for this to be achieved were as follows.

1. Remove those ugly arm bands and fit the side seams properly under my armpits.
2. Make bias binding to edge the armholes.
3. Use the rejected armhole fabric to create modesty-enhancing breast pockets.
4. Add a dome/press stud between gaping buttons.

FIT TO THE PITS

Removing the armhole bands and shifting the side seams closer to the body removed most of the problem of immodest gaping. Adding bias binding to the armhole edges added an exta centimeter coverage and helped pull in the soft edges to maintain a firm, close fit.

HOW TO MAKE BIAS TAPE FOR THIS PROJECT*

Cut 40mm wide strips of fabric across the bias (at 45 degrees to the selvedge). *Photo examples from another project

If your strips aren't long enough, cut the ends at 45 degrees and stitch together with a very narrow seam. Press seams open.

Press the strip in half, then press one side in towards the centre fold. Stitch the other side to the garment at 10mm seam allowance (right side of tape to wrong side of garment). Press the seam open. Turn garment right side out. Pin or tack the tape to the right side of the armhole, and topstitch close to the edge.

The cotton gingham I used for the bias tape is light and soft, so I didn't trim off any of the 10mm triple-fold tape after sewing it to the armhole, allowing the bulk of the seam allowance to create a firm edge.

CREATING FEATURE POCKETS

When I opened up the armhole fabric strips I'd carefully removed from the tunic, I found a fascinating combination of pleats and fade lines which I immediately knew I wanted to make a feature of the new version.

Throughout the process, I was careful not to press the pieces and lose those pleats. I sewed together the long edges of the two long strips, and from the length of this, cut two extra-wide pocket pieces, with the new seam running down the centre of each.

I cut a pocket lining (actual pocket width, plus seam allowance) from a matching cotton gingham, and interfaced it.

Photo from right to left: 1) old arm band pieces stitched together; 2) pleated chambray pinned to gingham lining; 3) chambray and lining stitched together and turned right side out. 4) Bias binding waiting above, one edge folded and pinned ready to be pressed (right), then (left) pins removed ready to sew the raw edge.

Right sides together, I pinned the chambray to the lining, pinching and folding the pleats and fade lines so they would show to advantage. (I didn’t tack them, which I regret, because one pleat switched direction under pressure from the sewing machine foot. Did you notice?)

I sewed around the edges of this pocket square, leaving a small gap in one side so I could turn it inside out.

I carefully pressed the seam edges of the pockets, still avoiding the centre pleats.

From left to right: 1) raw edge of bias binding ready to be sewed to the top edge of the pocket (right side to wrong side); 2) bias binding folded over to the right side and topstitched close to the edge.

I prepared bias binding from the gingham, and bound the top edge of the pockets. Now the pockets were ready to be topstitched to the tunic.

Voila! An old, stained tunic has a new lease of life, and I love wearing it. I had all the materials I needed in my stash. The only expense was in time and creativity.

Here endeth the tale of another satisfying and enjoyable Frugalista Fashion project. I hope you've found something beautiful and inspiring here today.

Look out for more Boutique Narelle posts detailing liberating modest fashion techniques.

Fiat lux!
Narelle 

Lime Daisy: Smart Fashion Tricks for Modest Women on a Budget

Skirt Upcycling Technique #6

Failed Tank Dress Re-Upcycled into Fabulous Faux-Two-Piece

Once upon a time, I bought a tank and blouse set with the intention of sewing the tank top to a purpose-made skirt to create a loose tank dress, and wearing the blouse over the dress. I thought I was getting a quick new outfit. Little did I know...

The knit tank top was too loose to support the skirt well, creating an uneven hemline. The Indian cotton blouse shrunk in the first wash, shortening the sleeves by several inches.

My first fix attempt was to use machine embroidery, braid, twill tape, and fabric remnants from the skirt to lengthen the shirt sleeves and try to make the additions look intentional. It never felt quite right, and I didn't wear it much.

I'm glad I didn't give up there. In contrast, my second fix attempt has worked very well indeed. I feel great wearing it, and it gets many appreciative comments.

I sent the wrangled shirt to a charity shop. I separated the knit tank top from the skirt and set about creating a fitted bodice that would properly support the skirt.

The original skirt had side pockets, and their bulk meant I couldn't gather the skirt evenly all around the waist. I chose to centre the gathers at back and front, leaving easy access to the pockets.

Based on a favourite dress pattern, I sewed a bodice lining from the same smooth green cotton I lined the skirt with, and attached the skirt to this.

I sewed another bodice in quality quilting cotton in a daisy print that coordinated with the seersucker cotton of the skirt. The outer bodice has a floating hem, giving the dress the appearance of a two-piece outfit. The daisy fabric is attached to the lining at neckline and armholes. The zipper was sewn to the outer fabric, then the lining handstitched to the zipper tape inside.

I love how versatile this dress is. At home, I wear it sleeveless or with a cardigan. When I go outside in the searing southern sun, I protect my sensitive skin with a voile overblouse. In the evenings, I add some class with a shrug made of polyester stretch net (found on sale at www.bfc.co.nz).

Bonus Tip: Make a Pretty Purse from a Paper Gift Bag

For the frugalistas among us, or those just in a hurry, a quick and low-cost way to make a pretty purse for a special occasion is to titivate a paper gift bag. Here, I used a plain gold-toned bag with satin cord handles. I chose neutral colours for the bag so that it will go with any outfit. I can quickly coordinate it with any outfit by changing the flower clipped to the front.

To make:

1. The handle construction is a very important pizzazz factor. If you like the bag, but the cord doesn't meet your requirements, try swapping the handles for a pair from a different bag, or make new ones from ribbon or cord that you do like.
2. Cut a square of fancy craft paper to fit the front and glue it in place. My bag measures 14cm x 16.5cm.
3. Cut a strip of stiff craft paper to make the flower bracket. My bracket strip measures 37mm x 27mm x 3mm. See photo illustration for how the sides are scored so they bend neatly. Glue just the outer tabs to the bag front. Now you have a bracket upon which to attach a hair accessory or brooch. My two-toned organza rose has an alligator clip on the back which slides neatly onto the bracket.
4. Cut a third strip of craft paper for a hanging tag. Punch a hole in one end. Pop the cord out of the bag (you may have to undo the knot), thread it through the hole you punched in the tag, and re-secure the cord in its place.

There you have it, a simple but surprisingly sturdy little tote that matches your outfit.

I hope you've found something beautiful and inspiring here today.

Now you know a fabulous trick for upcycling a secondhand skirt into a new and gorgeous dress for very little cost. You also know that a paper gift bag can make a gorgeous purse.

Look out for more Boutique Narelle posts detailing liberating modest fashion techniques.

Fiat lux!

Narelle

A Better Stripe: How to Upcycle a Miniskirt into a Pinny Apron

What might a modest woman do when she's given a miniskirt?

She might upcycle it. Here's the miniskirt I was given...

It looked worn and dirty, stapled together at the front, saggy and stained at the back. But the label said linen/cotton, so I thanked the giver with delight and gave the brief little skirt and its self-fabric tie belt several rounds of attentive laundering.

Many of the stains remained, but for what I had in mind for it, they would be in good company. With a crisper fabric in hand, I deconstructed the skirt, removing the side zipper and back pockets and unpicking the side seams.

Here's how I reconstructed it, turning a miniskirt into a pinafore apron.

1. Shape sides of pinny bib. Keeping the skirt front in same position for pinny, use the skirt back for the pinny bib. Flip the skirt back topside-down so that the waist band stays at the waist and the skirt hem is now under the chin. Fold under the extra width until it's a good fit at the shoulders, and stitch these flaps down the sides at the seam edge (but not across the top).

2. Reattach pockets. Cut and stitch linings for the two pockets, then sew them to the bib.

3. Shape upper edge of pinny bib. Pin about 5 inches of 1 inch cotton tape at centre front on the reverse side to stabilize the fabric (the linen had stretched and warped where the skirt got sat on). Sew a gathering stitch down each side of the tape, securing the stitches at the bottom end. Pull up the gathering threads, arrange the gathers, and handstitch the threads to secure the gathers.

4. Prepare skirt front. Stitch any seams or hems that were opened during the deconstruction phase. (Do this also with the waist edges of the bib.)

5. Join bib to skirt. Lay the bib waist on top of the skirt waist, making sure they are centred. Pin and stitch together.

6. Prepare straps. Cut tie belt at the halfway point. At upper edge of bib, insert raw ends of belt into the outside corners of the facing created when folding in the bib sides. Pin. Stitch across upper edge of facing.

7. Add hanger loop. Using a strip of cotton tape or bias binding, attach a bar behind one strap so you can easily hang your apron on a hook.

8. Sew button holes. Use an interfacing on the underside to give the buttonhole stability. Mark location for buttons and stitch on buttons.

I like that this apron style is cool and light, no bands around my waist, no dragging at my neck. I tried fastening the straps with just the button in the centre, but the apron shifted around too much as I worked. Adding the side buttons improved stability. If the apron needs to accommodate more bulk under it (likely in winter, when I wear more layers), I could place buttons at the hips and not use the upper and centre buttons.

The flower was glued to a button, which was glued to a felt dot, which was glued to an earring clip.

Now you know how to upcycle a miniskirt into an apron. I hope you've been inspired today to look at old garments as new possibilities.

Look out for more Boutique Narelle posts detailing liberating modest fashion techniques.

Fiat lux!

Narelle